Without a doubt, this NY Times article about Italian food in Genoa was the best thing I read today.
Though Genoa is not the largest city in Northern Italy (both Milan and Turin are bigger), it is the country’s most important port and features, in the città vecchia (old city), what is among the most sprawling, best preserved and most active medieval quarters in Europe. Here you find the typically narrow lanes that can barely accommodate anything wider than a scooter; at least three world-class churches; and, at the border with the “new” city, a street of spectacular palazzi. These days, the area includes dozens (I’m tempted to write “countless,” but indeed the list is finite) of restaurants that leave me walking around muttering, “If there were only one of these in my neighborhood, I’d be happy.”
Genoa also has a population that cares deeply about food, in a way that is ordinarily reserved for towns and villages. The artichokes from nearby Albenga are practically worshiped; anchovies are considered daily fare (you may eat more of them in a day here than you do in a year at home); pine nuts, olives, local seafood and herbs (especially basil, of course) are all ubiquitous, and the continuing dedication to the old ways is evident on nearly every street, in the bakeries that make farinata (the chickpea flatbread akin to Nice’s socca), vegetable tortas and focaccia, in the vegetable markets the size of closets and in the shop that sells tripe and nothing but.
It makes me wish I’d heard of Genoa so I could’ve gone and visited it when I was closer to Italy.
Filed under: best thing
